Sunday, June 17, 2018

Cleo Lining Tutorial

Hello blog friends!! Today I have a simple tutorial on how to add a full lining to the super popular Tilly & the Buttons CLEO Dungaree / Pinafore Dress. I never know what to call this style - I suppose here in the states, we would just say Overalls :) According to this pattern, if it has buckles, it's a dungaree dress and if it has buttons it means it's a pinafore. Who knew?!


The fabric I used for my is a cotton/linen canvas print. It is adorable, but kind of scratchy, so I knew I wanted a full lining. Also, the style is year-round and I wanted to easily wear it with tights or leggings in the colder months (aka, September - May in Chicago :)

I searched high and low for a tutorial on lining the Cleo, but came up short. Instead, I found this really helpful Threads article on how to quick line a dress with facings, and decided to adapt it. This is such an easy way to add a full lining to your dress, without any extra pattern drafting - YAY!

Let's get started!

A: Cut out all your pattern pieces from main fabric, as directed, including facings. You may choose not to use interfacing since the lining will act as a stabilizer.


B: Cut out a front lining piece and back lining piece, using the same pattern pieces you did for the main fabric front and back dress. You may want to omit the center seam and cut it out on the fold to save time - just fold the pattern piece edge 5/8" from the center.

C: Assemble the main dress according to the directions :) Stop when you get to the facings step - here is where we add our lining!

SUPER EASY FACING/LINING

Step 1: Finish the lower edge of both facing pieces. I used a serger for less bulk (and because it's easier) but you could also turn under 1/4" and stitch, or even use pinking shears


Step 2: Place the front facing wrong side on top of the front lining right side. Pin in place. Stitch along the facing lower finished edge to attach the facing to the lining, then baste with 1/2" seam allowance along the armholes and top edge


Step 3: Repeat for the back facing and back lining.

Step 4: Stitch the front lining (w/ facing) to the back lining (w/ facing) at the side seams, right sides together

Step 5: Slip the lining over the dress, right sides together. Pin top edges and armholes (just like directions for facing) and stitch.



Step 6: Trim seam allowances, grading if too bulky, clip the corners and curves



Step 7: Turn dress right side out and press, rolling seamline towards facing/lining. Edgestitch around neck and armholes.



Step 8: Attach buckles or buttons for straps, then try on.


Step 9: Finish lower edge of hem (serger or 1/4" turn under), then press up and pin. Hem the lining 1" shorter than the dress. Stitch.


And you're done!!! Isn't that so simple? I love this method for several reasons!

1) No new pattern drafting - just use the pieces you already have!
2) Eliminates the need for interfacing
3) Feels amazing on your skin (Mmmmm rayon bemberg lining)
4) Helps the whole garment hang better, especially if wearing tights or leggings
5) Keeps the main fabric (facings) visible along the sides and such, instead of a lining peeking out




I hope this was helpful! Let me know if you have any questions about the lining tutorial! Obviously, most of the dress construction is covered in the written instructions, as well as these sewalong posts.

Thanks for reading! Check back in soon for a finished outfit post :)

❤ Sally