Sunday, June 17, 2018

Cleo Lining Tutorial

Hello blog friends!! Today I have a simple tutorial on how to add a full lining to the super popular Tilly & the Buttons CLEO Dungaree / Pinafore Dress. I never know what to call this style - I suppose here in the states, we would just say Overalls :) According to this pattern, if it has buckles, it's a dungaree dress and if it has buttons it means it's a pinafore. Who knew?!

The fabric I used for my is a cotton/linen canvas print. It is adorable, but kind of scratchy, so I knew I wanted a full lining. Also, the style is year-round and I wanted to easily wear it with tights or leggings in the colder months (aka, September - May in Chicago :)

I searched high and low for a tutorial on lining the Cleo, but came up short. Instead, I found this really helpful Threads article on how to quick line a dress with facings, and decided to adapt it. This is such an easy way to add a full lining to your dress, without any extra pattern drafting - YAY!

Let's get started!

A: Cut out all your pattern pieces from main fabric, as directed, including facings. You may choose not to use interfacing since the lining will act as a stabilizer.

B: Cut out a front lining piece and back lining piece, using the same pattern pieces you did for the main fabric front and back dress. You may want to omit the center seam and cut it out on the fold to save time - just fold the pattern piece edge 5/8" from the center.

C: Assemble the main dress according to the directions :) Stop when you get to the facings step - here is where we add our lining!


Step 1: Finish the lower edge of both facing pieces. I used a serger for less bulk (and because it's easier) but you could also turn under 1/4" and stitch, or even use pinking shears

Step 2: Place the front facing wrong side on top of the front lining right side. Pin in place. Stitch along the facing lower finished edge to attach the facing to the lining, then baste with 1/2" seam allowance along the armholes and top edge

Step 3: Repeat for the back facing and back lining.

Step 4: Stitch the front lining (w/ facing) to the back lining (w/ facing) at the side seams, right sides together

Step 5: Slip the lining over the dress, right sides together. Pin top edges and armholes (just like directions for facing) and stitch.

Step 6: Trim seam allowances, grading if too bulky, clip the corners and curves

Step 7: Turn dress right side out and press, rolling seamline towards facing/lining. Edgestitch around neck and armholes.

Step 8: Attach buckles or buttons for straps, then try on.

Step 9: Finish lower edge of hem (serger or 1/4" turn under), then press up and pin. Hem the lining 1" shorter than the dress. Stitch.

And you're done!!! Isn't that so simple? I love this method for several reasons!

1) No new pattern drafting - just use the pieces you already have!
2) Eliminates the need for interfacing
3) Feels amazing on your skin (Mmmmm rayon bemberg lining)
4) Helps the whole garment hang better, especially if wearing tights or leggings
5) Keeps the main fabric (facings) visible along the sides and such, instead of a lining peeking out

I hope this was helpful! Let me know if you have any questions about the lining tutorial! Obviously, most of the dress construction is covered in the written instructions, as well as these sewalong posts.

Thanks for reading! Check back in soon for a finished outfit post :)

❤ Sally

Thursday, April 20, 2017

Flutter Sleeve Wrap Dress - McCall's 7406

Happy SPRING! As soon as it gets warm, I feel the sewing mojo returning :) I think it's my love for pretty prints and dresses, which don't come out as often in the cold winter months. I am excited to share my most recent sewing adventure: a flutter sleeve, wrap dress in a beautiful rayon challis print! I made it to wear on Easter :)

Fabric: Rayon Challis, Bungalow - Dahlia print in Lavender by Joel Dewberry

This beautiful fabric has been in my stash for at least a couple years. I love the satisfaction that comes with pairing an old, loved fabric with a sudden pattern/design inspiration and seeing how it turns out!

Pattern: McCall's 7406 - Wrap Dress, View A with flutter sleeves
Pattern Adjustments:
- Size 12 bust, size 10 at shoulders/armscye, size 14 waist
- Added 2" length
- Slash and spread skirt portion of dress to add width at the hips - needed more room there, and liked the style of a more flared skirt
- Added side seam pockets :)

Construction Notes:
- Very simple pattern! No closures, zippers, or buttonholes to worry about
- The instructions don't really mention how to finish the seams. I finished mine with a serger. I think a beginner pattern should include this important step!
- This did not fit me like it appeared on the envelope - the front appears to meet and close above the bust, and the skirt falls straight. On me, it was extremely gape-y and loose at the top when I tried to close it as pictured - there seemed to be a lot of extra fabric between the bust and the waist. I decided to wear it more open at the top, with a cami underneath. I actually like this look better! With the tie belt and loose sleeves, it almost feels like a kimono dress, which goes perfectly with the floral print :)

The Verdict: I love how it turned out, despite the fit issues - the fabric really makes this dress pop! Can't wait to wear for more special occasions through the spring and summer :)

What's on your spring sewing list? Do you find your sewing mojo returns with the warmer weather? Or are you a super-sewist who can go year round no problemo? Lol. Thanks for reading!

❤ Sally

P.S. I have purple hair now! :)

Monday, October 17, 2016

Santa Fe Tie-Dye Dress and Striped Tee

Helllooooo friends! Finally blogging my last two summer sewing projects, made from the same pattern:

Hey June Handmade's Santa Fe Top

First up, a knit midi dress in this groovy blue tie-dye print.  You may have seen it it on Instagram here or here! (technically also here, but in it's starting state ;)

This dress is so comfy and swingy it makes me want to dance! This blue/teal rayon spandex knit from Joann's is a little outside my normal style, but when I saw it I knew I wanted a tank dress out of it!
I also knew I wanted to wear it to school and therefore it should have a modest neckline (surprisingly hard to find on tank sewing patterns) and that is what led me to the Santa Fe Top pattern by Hey June Handmade.

To create the dress, I simply added a gathered skirt with an elastic waist casing to the sleeveless top - View A - which I cut on the fold instead of having a center seam. Originally it was maxi length, but I felt overwhelmed by the print so I cut it off to make a midi-length (oooh...trendy ;) *More visible in the instagram photos

My second project with this pattern was a striped tee in a bold black and ivory stripe rayon knit. This is view C of the pattern, without the center seam (cut on the fold). It is also very comfortable to wear, although the flowy silhouette is not as flattering from the side when you are more than a B cup ;)

My absolute favorite thing about this pattern is that it introduced me to knit neck bindings, as opposed to neck bands. The difference is that a neck binding folds over the entire neckline from underneath, completely encasing the seam allowance and helping the neckline to lay flat. It is a super clean finish inside and out. After making these two garments this way, I may never go back to bands again!

The only disappointment with this top is the fabric - after two wears it is already pilling like crazy. I am pretty sure I got it at Joann's, but I can't find a link. Are there any good tells of fabric quality (other than the price tag) before buying a knit like this??? Have any of your favorite sewing projects ever been ruined by bad fabric? Commiserate with me in the comments below! Lol - and thanks for reading!

❤ Sally