This fun top is the result of a disastrous attempt at a dress. But don't worry - it was all part of the plan: 

THE PLAN
1. Attempt to squeeze a dress out of one yard of knit fabric
2. Attempt a form-fitting t-shirt dress that fits both on top and bottom
3. Use dress to learn about and address fit issues
4. If dress fails, hack into a tee :)

I am very different sizes on top and bottom - a classic "pear shape" - so I have trouble fitting into slim or straight cut RTW dresses. One of the perks of sewing is making clothes you otherwise could not find in stores. I am determined to figure out how to sew a slim fitting dress that fits well!



Fabric: Textured Stripe Knit from Vogue Fabrics - One yard // Black rib knit fabric from stash

Love the look of these stripes! The texture gives it a little extra something. It is not completely opaque, but definitely enough for a top :) It also isn't super stretchy.

Obviously this had to have contrast neck and sleeve bands - definitely inspired by True Bias new pattern, Rio (but honestly didn't need to spend money on yet another knit top pattern) 


Pattern: Ruska tee / dress from Breaking the Pattern by Named Patterns. Originally cut the medium length sleeves, but ended up shortening by 3 inches. I borrowed the sleeve cuff pattern piece from Deer & Doe's Ondee sweater. 

Original pattern pieces laid out to cut!

Pin is where I cut to shorten to tee length - also ended up shortening the sleeves

Sizing / Fit: This is where it gets interesting... I cut out the dress as a size 4 on top, grading to an 8 at the hip, based on my measurements (36" B, 30" W, 46" H). I added about 1.5" length at hip as well. This ended up in a super curvy side seam.  After stitching the body together, I had a moment of realization... most of my hip measurement is my butt - lololol. At least, what makes it such a big size difference! When I tried it on, the side seams flopped around loosely while the back stretched tightly, and the front lay normally. 

After reading up on it, I found that in the future, I should cut a closer hip size to my bust/waist, but then do a Full Butt Adjustment to add the extra room needed!!! This was a major breakthrough - I have always attempted to add hip room at the side seams and have been constantly disappointed. Since I knew this would become a tee, I sacrificed the back of the dress, literally cutting it open along the back center seam, and out towards the side seam across the curviest part of my butt, until the hem hung straight. Based on this experiment, my next dress will have a 1.5" FBA (that's butt, not bust lol), in addition to a swayback adjustment (clearly needed, as seen from back pic of tee as well). I will probably also grade out at the hip to give extra room, but try not to go more than 2 sizes up.



I can't wait to try my new found adjustments and see how it goes! For now, I leave you with more pics of this tee, as well as the new fern we just adopted for our patio. I think we should name him Fer(n)dinand ;) 


❤ Sally