Friday, August 2, 2013

Striped BHL Victoria Blazer

Pattern: By Hand London Victoria Blazer - Cropped
Fabric: Shell - White/Navy Stripe, Lining - Coral (Not sure exact fabric as both were mystery remnants)




I knew this would be a great pattern when the hubs saw the pattern envelope laying on the table and commented, "Oh that's cool." This is a big deal, people. I mean the pattern design is one thing, but the design of the pattern packaging just takes it to a whole other level. You feel so cool when you're sewing up this blazer!




This pattern was absolutely wonderful to work with - everything matched up just perfectly, the instructions are thorough, and there are some very cool design aspects and techniques that make the finished product look very professional. For example, the front darts and collar are sewn on with on continuous line of stitching, and the cuffs are french seamed so they look good AND stay put! The lining is a cinch to put in, and I even was able to finish it all by machine! Details below:




Pattern: By Hand London Victoria Blazer - Cropped Version

Size: US 6 / UK 10

My Shape: Tall (6'0), pear shape, narrow shoulders, long torso

Fabric: 
Shell - White w/ Navy Stripe Medium Weight Fabric (similar to denim or twill)
Lining - Pink/Coral silky soft remnant - one side is silky, the other is more textured like shaved velvet???

Size Alterations: None! I was considering adding back darts for a more fitted look but decided I liked the looser fit - also it would be hard to move the arms forward much with a more fitted back

Design Changes: 
- Angled lapel (separate blog post on this soon!)

Construction Notes: This pattern was excellently designed! Here is how I finished the blazer:

- Serge shell armhole to finish and lining armhole to finish - separately!
- Attached lining around neckline/front (not hem)
- Hand tack the lapel down (between lining and shell)
- Stitch lining to shell at hem around front pieces AND 3" in on both sides of back piece
- Turn right side out and press
- Bring remaining back piece through the open armhole and machine finish hem - press
- Stitch armhole of shell and lining together along serged seams

This last step helped significantly in keeping the lining from peeking out underneath the blazer shell - check out these pictures of one side with the armhole stitched and one without:


See the difference! In the end, I have a super neat garment inside and out:



I also took Marie's idea and top-stitched the collar and lapel seam for security :)

Who knows??
For my first pattern from BHL, I have to say that I am sold! I will definitely be getting my hands on their other patterns ASAP and can't wait to make up another full length blazer (maybe sleeveless) for the fall! Have you made the Victoria Blazer??? Be sure to check out the Sew-Along wrap up post over at By Hand London with all the great blazers made by sewists like you :) See you there!

Sorry for the weird top/cleavage thing but this was the only good pic from the straight front!

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