Sunday, December 7, 2014

A Mini Chardon Skirt in Burgundy


Every girl needs a versatile holiday skirt. At least, that's what this fabric seemed to whisper, sitting on the shelf at the Needle Shop. "I am the perfect color, have a little shine, and ooh, ooh, look at my subtle polka dots!". Fine. I was sold. I scooped up a yard and a quarter and headed home to make this festive frock.


I knew I wanted this skirt to be a "mini" since it was going to be worn with leggings (most likely fleece lined) or tights all the time.  I wanted a fit and flare silhouette, but didn't have much fabric, so I went with the Deer & Doe Chardon skirt (made previously here). This fabric was perfect to hold the structure of the pleats. 


Here are the details:

Pattern: Chardon Skirt / Jupe by Deer & Doe

Materials: Jacquard Twill in Burgundy Dot from The Needle Shop, Interfacing, Invisible zipper

Sizing / Fit Alterations: Cut size 42 - let out front pleat and side seams slightly for a perfect fit.

For mini length, I cut the skirt at the "contrast" line instead of the lower edge hem.



Construction Notes:

Understitch the waistband facing - it will help it lay smoother

Hand sewing required: tacking the facing down to the zipper tape, tack waistband facing at side seams

The pattern calls for a 10" regular zipper, but I used a 9" invisible zip


New technique - Blind Hem. 

My sewing machine has a special presser foot for this that I have never tried. My first attempt was reaaaaally bad, but I think the second try looks nice! Not perfect, by any means, but it makes me want to give it a go on future garments.


The Verdict: 

I really like this skirt pattern, and adore this fabric! Perfect for this time of year. I decided to pair it up with a couple options for photos, and ended up liking all of them. The ones above are just with a pale pink tee. I also could wear it with a silk tank:


Or a cozy sweater:


Or just a simple black tee with a statement necklace, which is how I wore it for a recent family Christmas party, when I got an awesome sewing book! Famous Frocks: The Little Black Dress by Dolin Bliss O'Shea. There are some great patterns included - can't wait to try them out.

So, any sewing related presents on your Christmas wish list this year? Have you made any holiday attire? Sewn any Deer and Doe recently? Be sure to add it to our flickr pool! And thanks for reading! :)

Monday, November 24, 2014

Autumn Hearts Reglisse


One year ago, to the day, I posted about my first Reglisse dress.


And now, I give you my second rendition!


Pattern: Deer & Doe Reglisse Dress


Sizing: 38 (bust) 40 (waist) with added length to skirt


Fabric: Navy / Multi Hearts Polyester Print - Vogue Fabrics


All inside edges overlocked, except bias tape finish around neckline.
Also my first attempt at a rolled hem...


You may have seen my realization on instagram, when I discovered I've been using my serger totally wrong for the past two years! As in sewing ALL THE THINGS on the rolled hem setting. Derp!


Let's just say, I still love this dress as much as I did a year ago.

And I think November 24th may officially become a quirky peach + Reglisse tradition :)



Saturday, November 1, 2014

It's Princess Bubblegum!


I am SO VERY EXCITED about this post, friends! This year, for the first time, I sewed my own Halloween costume, and Oh. My. Glob. I LOVE IT! Our school held a teacher costume contest, and it had to be TV show themed. I wanted to make something that the kids would know, as last year my decision to be "Reigning Cats and Dogs" just went over everyone's head. I turned to one of my favorite shows - ADVENTURE TIME! And of course, decided to be Princess Bubblegum!


Princess Bubblegum has an adorable wardrobe, as you might expect, full of pink and purple. Her main outfit is a long pink gown with short puff sleeves, and a purple peter pan collar, waistband, and sleeve cuffs. I also wanted to make it with KNIT fabric, which is easier/faster to sew and would be comfortable to wear all day. I decided to try the Colette Moneta dress, which includes a peter pan collar variation.


PATTERN:

For P Bubs dress, I only needed to use certain pieces of the pattern, so here are the pages I printed:

Pattern Pieces Used, Version 2: Front Bodice (A), Back Bodice (B), Short Sleeve (H)
Pages printed from Variation 2, Size XS-XL: 23-26, 28-36, 39-44

Pattern Pieces Used, Free E-book: Peter Pan Collar Front (G) size XS-XL, Collar Back (F) size XS-XL
Pages printed from Free E-book: 15, 21-22

My own added pieces - Waistband, Sleeve band / cuff, Skirt

Sizing: Small at the Bust, graded to Medium at the waist

Design Changes: Added waistband, altered sleeves, gathered floor length skirt

I altered the sleeve pattern piece to make them poofy and gathered using this tutorial, and added a sleeve band / cuff in purple

The waistband was cut to match the length of the lower edge of the bodice. If I add a waistband to this pattern again, I will move it up one inch.

The skirt is the width of the fabric, edges stitched together, and gathered to fit the waistband



Dress Construction Notes:

- Sewn with Archibald (sewing machine) and Clarence (serger)
- Very straightforward sew, except for my added design changes, which were also pretty simple

Tips for sewing the peter pan collar:

- Press pieces before sewing, but be sure not to stretch them out
- Interfacing not required if using a medium weight knit (like mine)
- After stitching along the outside of the collars, clip notches in the curves to reduce bulk and smooth out the edge
- When sewing the collar to the bodice, be sure your front pieces overlap at least 1/4" - this will cover the raw edge when it is flipped to the outside. If they are not overlapping enough, your raw edge will peek out from between the pieces - ask me how I know :P
- You could stitch in the ditch at the shoulder seams to help anchor the collar to the dress (I didn't ;)
- Tack the peter pan collar tips to the dress at the front *mine didn't lay flat, but I blame this on my heavier knit fabric


FABRIC:

Pink - Reversible Knit Fabric from Joann's
Purple - Same fabric, different color, in scrap stash, used to make this Ivy Tee last summer

This is the "solid" side, which has a slight heathered look to it, and some sparkle! The other side is a very subtle stripe, which you can see better in my orange Plantain tunic, using this same fabric :)

How awesome that I had the exact color purple in my scrap bin, and it is the same exact fabric as the pink, just a different color! The OCD part of me is very pleased right now :)


CROWN:

Supplies: Gold satin headband, 1 sheet gold cardstock scrapbook paper, blue plastic rhinestone (all from Joanns), hot glue gun, scissors or rotary cutter/mat, white cardstock

Construction:
- Cut long strip of both gold and white cardstock, wrapped around middle of headband and glued together and to headband
- Freehand cut out the shape of the crown, using large spool of thread to trace the circle at the top, with additional 1/2" at bottom to wrap underneath headband at front edge (this was the third attempt ;) and hot glue at bottom edge and corners
- Hot glue blue circle gem to top of crown et Voila!


HAIR / MAKEUP:

Hair - Wig, purchased here on Amazon - styled in these photos in a bun to see the dress better. You can see it worn down in this picture on instagram. Not going to lie, I kind of love having pink hair :) But I am too lazy to deal with the constant upkeep. And this length - OMG. I kept getting tangled in my own hair all day!

Makeup - I almost purchased pink body/face color and went all pink, all the way, but decided to just go super pink on the makeup instead! :) And I've never talked about makeup on the blog, but I got hyperlink happy, so here we go:

Cheeks: Benefit's Hervana Blush* - my favorite blush, applied super heavy for P Bubs!
Lips: Lancome Juicy Tubes lipgloss over Pink Lady lipcolor
Eyes: L'Oreal Colour Riche Lipcolor in Pink Lady on lips and eyes ;)
Neutrogena powder eyeshadow duo on eyes (over lipstick)
Urban Decay eyeliner in Rockstar*
L'Oreal Voluminous Mascara*

*my go-to makeup, worn daily :)


FINN HAT for the hubs:

Made using the free pdf download available HERE *Did not watch the video until after attempting construction...I assumed it would be easy enough to sew for an accomplished seamstress like myself. Wrong! Lol. What I learned = I've been spoiled by well designed pattern piece markings. Pattern piece number 1 should say "cut on fold" at the front and if you want to line it, you need to cut two. Same goes for piece number 2, and piece number 3 should say "cut four". Fabric is white blizzard fleece, from the remnant section at Joanns, total cost $1.88 :)


WOW! Long post - sorry! But really, this is the most effort I have ever put into a costume and I want to brag about it share the valuable knowledge gained by this experience ;) I am definitely saving this if/when I go to a Comic Con! So what did you do for Halloween this year?! And what is the most awesome costume you have ever made? I am already planning to use this pink wig next year and rock an awesome Sakura ensemble :)