Thursday, April 30, 2015

Coral & Gray Minoru Jacket

This jacket. This jacket has been an ongoing project since last June. That's 10 months people. That is an awfully long time to sew something. I am just SO happy to be finished! This was intended to be a wearable muslin, but the more I worked on it, the more I fell in love with it and wanted it to turn out perfect. This led to crazy things like redoing the cuffs a bajillion times until they were just right, or hand-stitching instead of machine stitching certain parts because it would look better. But I have to say, it turned out pretty fantastic, inside and out. Probably the best thing I have ever sewn, actually :)


The jacket is the Sewaholic Minoru, which has been in my stash for quite a while. The main fabric is a very soft gray cotton twill (I think) with poly floral print lining. I went with coral pink zippers and top-stitching thread. I may or may not have already had these perfectly matching boots and scarf in my wardrobe ;)

This jacket fits GREAT everywhere except the hips. When I started it, 10 months (and 10 pounds) ago it seemed like the finished measurements would be roomy enough for my junk in the trunk. In hindsight (teehee... hind-sight) I definitely should have graded out at the hips. I only have 4" of ease around the hips, which is okay, but when I put my hands in my pockets it is pretty snug. Oh yeah, pockets! I added the welt pockets from the Rigel bomber jacket pattern :)

Details At a Glance:

Pattern: Sewaholic Minoru Jacket

Fabric: Main - Gray Cotton Twill(?) and Lining - Floral Poly, both from Hancock Fabrics
Notions: Coral Zippers, Gray thread, Coral thread, Handmade label, interfacing

Size / Fit / Alterations:
- Cut a straight size 10
- Next time, I will add length to the jacket and grade out at the hips

Design Changes:
- Lined the hood, using a method similar to this one
- Added single welt pockets (pattern pieces from Papercut's Rigel bomber jacket)
- Omitted inside pocket
- Shortened cuffs, interfaced, and omitted elastic/gathers
- Contrast top-stitching to match zippers

Construction Notes:
Finish seam allowances in the hood/collar section well - they are not concealed in the lining
Hand-stitched main jacket / lining at collar instead of machine stitch-in-the-ditch
- Measure the zipper window in collar carefully :)   

And that's about all I can say about that. I am sure there were tons of other little interesting tidbits about the construction and what not, but it's been so long since I started that I forget most of it - haha. I am really proud of this jacket, and I am so happy it's finished!

What is the garment YOU are most proud of sewing? If you blogged it please include the link so I can check it out! :) Thanks for reading!

❤ Sally

Monday, April 13, 2015

Black and Blue - Hollyburn Skirts 1 & 2

Happy Spring Everyone! :) This is my latest sewing project, a Sewaholic Hollyburn skirt. The fabric is black floral cotton sateen, leftover from my Rigel Bomber jacket. I was so happy I had just enough to fit all the pattern pieces on, although some of them may not be quite perfectly on grain ;) 

The dress is a really straightforward sew - pockets, skirt seams, waistband, invisible zip, hem, done! This is View C, the shortest version, which I find to be a good length and I'm 6'0!! The only alteration I made was to nip in the waistband at the side seams. The straight waistband didn't sit quite right on my curvy waist. My favorite part is the bias bound hem - HAPPY YELLOW!

The skirt is so colorful, it goes with almost everything! I really like it with my new Maker tee by Megan Nielsen (worn here with my floral Rigel). My favorite pairing, however, is with a black and white striped top. I cannot get enough of stripes and floral! This boatneck knit top is from Target.

And a couple more detail shots - the fabric is just so pretty! 

This is actually my second version of the Hollyburn. The first one I made back in August of last year, in a solid "Tardis Blue" color to wear the premier of the new Doctor Who series with Peter Capaldi. 

I took some photos of the blue one back in February but never got around to blogging it. Funny enough, I am wearing the exact same top in a different color! What can I say - Hollyburn and boatneck stripes are a perfect pair :)

So what is your favorite skirt pattern? Do you have any go-to combos in your wardrobe? Are you a straight or curvy waistband sort of girl? Any photographed but unblogged projects in your queue?

Thanks again for reading! ❤ Sally

Monday, March 16, 2015

The Happy Whale Dress

Happy Monday, friends! Finally the sun has started to shine here in Chicago-land and I could not be more excited :) Last weekend was my cousin-in-law's wedding shower. The theme was tropical and she loves marine biology, so I decided to whip up a dress with this whale print cotton that has been in my stash since last summer. But these are not just any regular old whales...

They are HAPPY whales! Just look at those adorable little smiles :) When I saw them across the aisle in the "Baby / Nursery" quilting cotton section of Joann's, I had to have them. The print is definitely kitschy, but the colors are great, and so me, that I could only see it as a cute dress!

Now to find a suitable pattern...

I wanted something with a higher boat neck shape, because duh... whales=ocean=boats... and also it really lets the print shine. I didn't have anything in my stash that quite fit the bill, so I went off to Joann's to see what I could find. There were no "Big Four" patterns on sale, so I turned to New Look and found this great little dress pattern 6262.

I don't typically purchase New Look patterns. Partially due to the cost ($3.99 - gasp I know ;) versus on-sale Big 4 patterns ($1 - $2). BUT I made a great discovery - each pattern envelope includes the entire size range! Typically in the Big 4 I never know which size to get b/c my bust is usually in the smaller size and my waist/hip in the larger. And who wants to buy two of every pattern!? Or try to grade on two separate pattern pieces! All that to say, I am quite happy with having all sizes together and I will definitely be browsing the New Look catalog more often :) I mean, just look at this dress, and this one, or this one, which I totally forgot I made last summer...oops!

Here are the details:

Pattern: New Look 6262 - View B, no overlay, with lined bodice

Fabric: Novelty Quilt Print Cotton - Whales on Navy from Joann Fabrics (no longer available)
Lining: Ambiance Bemberg Lining Fabric - Medevial Blue from Joann Fabrics (still available)

Sizing / Fit: 12 bust, 14 waist, 18-ish hips/skirt
*For the skirt, I cut out a larger size, closer to 18, and just gathered to fit the 14 waist

Bodice is lined with bemberg (the best) lining, attached around the neck and understiched, along the zipper, and at the waistline - serged together at armscyes

Something wonky happened in the back with the lining and the back neckline twists. I'm not sure what caused this, but it could have been my hurriedly slapdash method of putting it together the morning of the party ;)

But it's not that noticeable from more than a yard away, so....

Haha... And that's really all I have to say! I totally love the print and colors of this dress. The pattern, New Look 6262, is a great dress pattern with lots of options - I really want to try the V-neck version as well!

And this dress pairs perfectly with my new pink coat from Anthropologie :) Yes I pinned it months ago to sew, but found it on sale and just bought it instead of attempting to sew it myself. It's perfect for these winter to spring months!

Pink.... buttons.... flared.... swirly.... pockets....

Sometimes when it's your dream coat, you just buy instead of make. What do you think? Would you buy a dream garment instead of sew it, if you could find it RTW??? Or am I talking crazy here? ;)

Thanks for reading!!!  Sally