Thursday, September 25, 2014

Deer & Doe Bruyère in Bicycles


Hi there, readers! Oh just me, hanging out on a perfect fall day in my new Deer and Doe Bruyère Shirt, avec BICYCLES! I sewed this up as part of Selfish Sewing Week (SSW), hosted by Rachael of Imagine Gnats! I cannot even tell you how excited I was to get Eléonore's newest pattern to try out!




This was such a fun top to make, but also challenging! Waistbands, sleeve plackets, cuffs, collars - you name it! Some definite new-to-me techniques, and a fully french seamed inside made this a slow process, but it was worth it! I can say this is one of my proudest sewing projects!



Here are the details:

Pattern: Bruyere Shirt, the newest from Deer & Doe Patterns

A long sleeve, button down tunic with waist band, darts, pleats, collar, and cuffs

Materials: 

100% Cotton - described as "a very nice cycle pattern for all children" ;)

Ten 9/16" buttons - vintage - found on Earth Gatherings, an Etsy shop

Thread (two spools!)

This is one of the best fabrics I have ever sewn with, and so wonderful to wear! It is light and soft, and the print! Bicycles! Originally I purchased this fabric to make a Bleuet dress, but it is a bit sheer so I decided it would be better as a top!

I could not believe how well it matched the buttons I found on Etsy a year previous to purchasing the fabric - the purple / gray / brown is such a unique color!


Sizing / Alterations:

Size: 38 (B), graded to 42 (W), graded to 46 (H)

While I should have made a size 40 (B) according to my current measurements, all my other Deer and Doe makes have been size 38 and fit wonderfully - I risked it and am very happy with the results!

Added length: 1 1/2 inches - Bodice, 1 inch - sleeve

Next time I will sew a size 40 waist (there is a little extra room there), and lengthen the sleeve another inch




Construction Notes:

Oh boy! This is possibly one of the more advanced patterns I've made, thanks in part to my decision to FRENCH SEAM ALL THE THINGS! Here are my thoughts on a few parts of the process:

These pattern instructions are a good mix of illustration and text, but nothing too extensive - the pattern is rated "Advanced" but I think an Intermediate level sewist (like myself) could pull it off - just be sure to take your time! This is not a one-afternoon project ;)

The collar, facing, and button placket construction is very cool - I like the finish quite a lot and it didn't take nearly as much time as a "proper collar" with a stand and everything

Button placket - to interface, or not? You are to interface the collar and sleeve cuff, but no mention of it for the button placket? Also does "topstich 7/8" from the edge" mean on both sides? I only did one.

Sleeve placket - I sewed mine inside out - oops!

Sleeve cuffs - possible the trickiest part, gathering and inserting the sleeve end into the cuff. Next time, maybe I will baste the sleeve end to one side of the cuff before pressing the ends in 5/8"?

Eléonore includes directions to use french seams for a impeccable finish - this included: waist band, side seams, armscye, and sleeve seams - all other seam allowances are neatly hidden in between other pieces, etc. and it really does look flawless! :)


And that's really all I have to say about that! I am so proud of this garment, inside and out. It will be in high rotation through the autumn :) Be sure to check out Selfish Sewing Week with Imagine Gnats - there are several featured stitchers, sewing up some amazing indie patterns!

Oh! And of course, I will be adding this to the flickr pool for Let's Sew Deer & Doe! Two awesome sewing collaborations, one adorable bicycle top :)


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