Monday, March 31, 2014

Navy Hearts Sureau and Tutorial

Hello friends! Today's make is the Sureau Dress by Deer and Doe. We're going to go ahead and call it a wearable muslin, although it will probably never get worn due to the cheap cotton fabric I used to make it not being pleasant to wear whatsoever :( This was definitely a tale of perseverance - I spent a looooooong time attempting to fix the neckline gape and nothing really seemed to work. I ended up with these seams that kind of resemble raglan sleeves, which somewhat fixed the gaping problem, but the whole shape of the neckline is kind of off now. Next time I make this dress, I will redraw all this on the pattern piece before cutting, but hey! That's what muslins are for, right? ;)

Here are the details:

Pattern: Deer and Doe Sureau Dress

Size: 38 at bust, graded to 42 at waist

My Shape: Tall (6'), pear shape, narrow shoulders, long torso

Fabric: Quilting Cotton from Joann's - Navy with Cream Hearts

Size Alterations: None, really, except fixing that blasted neckline

Design Changes: Added cuffs / bands to sleeve - I just can't stand loose baggy long sleeves.


1. Cut out the sleeve. Cut a sleeve band / cuff on the bias - I used the button placket as my pattern piece, but you can measure around your arm where the sleeve ends to make it the perfect size - just don't forget to add a seam allowance.  I cut this piece on the bias to give it a tiny bit of stretch - that way it fits snugly around the arm but isn't uncomfortably tight :)

2. Fold the sleeve, right sides together, and stitch the side seam. Finish the edge.

3. Fold the cuff in half, wrong sides together, and press.

4. Unfold the cuff and put the short ends together, right sides together. Stitch this edge. Press open.

5. Stitch a long (I use 4 length) stitch along the hem of the sleeve, but do not backstitch at the beginning or end. Gather the sleeve end by gently pulling the bobbin thread from each end until it is the same length as your cuff.

6. Refold the cuff longways, wrong sides together. Match the seam of the cuff to the seam of the sleeve - pin.

7. Evenly space the gathers along the sleeve hem and pin to cuff

8. Stitch the cuff to the sleeve. Check for any errors, then finish the seam.

9. Turn right side out, remove any remaining visible gathering stitches, and you're done! :)

I absolutely LOVE the bodice design with the faux button placket and gathers - that is what motivated me to keep truckin' with this dress - I really do want to make it again, and work out the issues with the neckline. Also I need to make sure the zipper isn't too long, or stiff - it kind of makes the side of the skirt stick out funny on the one side - oh well! MUSLIN! :)

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